SKULPT is a unique sculptable 3D printer filament materialized by Thibra3D 7 FormFutura, which allows one to post process SKULPT 3D printed objects similar to sculpting clay. By projecting a temperature of ± 70° C on the SKULPT 3D printed object it will be possible to tweak and fine tune the 3D printed object by sculpting it or remodelling it slightly.
Visible 3D printed layers and imperfections caused by blobs, zits, zippers and removed support structures on the SKULPT 3D printed object can very easily be remodelled into a perfect smooth service and even detailed accents can be sculpted into the surface of the SKULPT 3D printed object.
Sculptable by applying heat
Use a heat gun to project a temperature of ± 70°C to the part of the SKULPT 3D printed object which requires finetuning by sculpting and/or remodeling
Easily smooth out visible 3D printed layers and imperfections caused by blobs, zits and removed support structures
Very easy to paint with acrylic paints
SKULPT 3D printed object only has to be degreased with soap and lukewarm water before painting
SKULPT 3D printed objects can be polished
Repeatedly sculptable and reusable
SKULPT 3D printed objects can continuously sculpted by remodeling, carving, cutting, adding extra material SKULPT material, etc…
Leftover support structures can be reused for sculpting
Does not dry out or crack
3D print support structures with the same SKULPT 3D printer filament as used for the primary objects as the object can perfectly be smoothed out and leftover support material can be reused for sculpting
STORAGE: One large resealable bag with slider + an extra desiccant pack are included with every spool. The bag and extra desiccant are a great way to safely store your filament spool when not in use. It keeps your filament bone dry & free from any dust or dirt particles, so it's always ready for your next print.
NET WEIGHT: 0.75 KG (1.65 LB)
190°C - 220°C
Nozzle size: ≥ 0.4mm
Layer height: ≥ 0.2mm
Flow rate: ± 110% - 121%
Print speed: Medium
Retraction: Yes, 1.5 - 3mm
Heat bed: ± 45 - 60° C
Fan speed: 100%
For printers that use a 2.85mm SKULPT 3D printer filament the recommended printing (nozzle) temperature range is ± 200 - 220° C (benchmarked on Ultimaker 2. For printers that use a 1.75mm SKULPT 3D printer filament the recommended printing (nozzle) temperature range is ± 190 - 210° C (benchmarked on Prusa I3 MK2).
The heated bed should be set at 60° C for 3D printing the first layer of your SKULPT 3D printed object and then lowered 45° C for 3D printing the remainder of your SKULPT 3D printed object .
When 3D printing with SKULPT 3D printer filament on a 3D printer that uses 2.85mm SKULPT filament it is recommended to increase the flow rate to ± 121% (benchmarked on Ultimaker 2). When 3D printing with SKULPT 3D printer filament on a 3D printer that uses 1.75mm SKULPT filament it is recommended to increase the flow rate to ± 110% (benchmarked on Prusa I3 MK2).
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According to their MSDS, this is some sort of PCL-blend. PCL's commonly used in thermoplastics like Worbla, Friendly Plastic and Kobracast, so in general it does have a similar waxy feel, although perhaps somewhat harder at room temperature. Using the recommended settings, I ran several prints between 0.2 and 0.1mm and experienced pretty good, uniform print quality in general. I did run in to some wobbly thin areas, but was able to fix this with a bit of heat and remodelling later. Curved tops and bottoms did end up being a bit underextruded, but were later sculpted down. Given, in some cases, that I was printing low-poly models to sculpt later, this was less of an issue.
I did find this material a bit more difficult to remove - from the print bed as well as from itself (support material). It's not as brittle as PLA in this regard and is a bit more stretchy (although I would not say it has enough elasticity to bounce back to what it was.
The material is easily heated and reheated. I used a heat-gun at 300C - you could just as easily use a hairdryer or very hot water.
I have not yet tried a solid print, although I suspect doing so would reduce the sculptability, since a lot of its pliability comes from its flexibility and the ability to compress the air inside. My walls ranged between 0.8-1.2mm thick. From a sculpting point of view, I feel like I applied more pressure and smoothing than actually removing a lot of material. I would say scraping the material while cold would work better for material removal than heated - mostly because this material behaves like taffy or caramel when warmed.
Have not yet tried priming or painting, so i can't comment on my experience there.
- Ability to rework.
- Good print quality
- Final sculpted print structurally strong (keep in mind this is also dependent upon your settings and the degree to which the model has been modified)
- Potentially completely reusable. Can be reused like Friendly Plastic or, I imagine, be run through a shredder/filament maker to make recycled filament.
- It's easy to go overboard reworking this material. Using a heatgun for anything more than a few seconds of heat is probably overkill. It's easy to end up with an unfixable, floppy mess if you're not careful.
- Not sure how well it differs or measures up to other PCL filaments and whether other PCL filaments are similarly sculptable.
- A bit tougher to remove support material compared to PLA and ABS. Sometimes leaves behind scraps that need to be removed or smoothed down.
- Interesting to try at least once.
- If you intend to make refinements after printing, you should adjust your wall thickness accordingly. Some compression is advised. I doubt a solid print would compress easily.
- Final product is rigid and waxy when cool, although still susceptible to getting scratched or dented.
- Due to cost, probably not for large applications, unless you don't mind working with premium priced materials at large scale to begin with.
- Probably not a great candidate for heat-fast, durable finished works. Might be a good candidate as a sculpted master to mold and cast in resin.